India winning a medal at the Olympics. Politicians doing good work that benefit citizens. The Raghu household going on a vacation. What do all of these seemingly unconnected events have in common? They rarely occur. Now that last event is certainly a tricky proposition; planning, organizing and executing a vacation successfully definitely is a Herculean task. Something or the other usually goes wrong. All the more reason to be happy since we just returned from a great trip to Darjeeling, Gangtok and Kolkata. It was not totally free of incidents; but we returned with great memories nonetheless. It is these that I wish to record in the form of a travelog; my very first.
28th March – Departure:
The previous night had been hectic with the last minute arrangements and packing. We left home at 6:20 am for the 8:15 flight to Kolkata. As we neared the airport, I took out the e-ticket and had a glance to reassure myself. The word Kolkata had a fixating effect. The city had been a subject of discussion: to visit or not? It was the only metro I had not seen. The tickets had been booked by then though, and the topic was given a quiet burial. Now I turned it over in my mind once again. After a quick consultation, we decided to give the city of joy a dekko on the return trip. There was just enough time to make the rescheduling; I dashed to the Jetlite airlines counter. The person there got a bit confused; consulted with another staff, and fiddled with the system. After a few minutes, I got the new tickets and without having to pay anything extra! So there would be no problems with these new tickets I asked him. He replied in the affirmative and we were all quite pleased with the way things had shaped up. Well, not quite – my mother had been running a mental checklist of things that had to be taken, and remembered that we had forgotten few of them; so much for the checklist she had asked me to make. I made it and put it away safely beyond anybody’s vision.
The Indigo airlines flight to Kolkata was via Hyderabad, and was right on schedule. Hyderabad has managed to get the new international airport up and running after a few minor hiccups; the one in Bangalore remains stuck in a bureaucratic quagmire. From Kolkata it was an hour’s journey to Bagdogra, the airport nearest to Darjeeling, which in turn was a 3 hr drive by some of the worst mountain roads (if they can be called roads in the first place). To make matters worse, we hired a Maruti van (Omni) instead of opting for the sturdier 4-wheel drive (Sumo) at the pre-paid taxi counter, and hence huffed and puffed our way to the hilltop. We stopped for a tea-break (much needed by all) at Kurseong, a quiet hill town that has been dwarfed by the excessive attention given to Darjeeling. I had wanted to have a look around Kurseong; unfortunately there was no time and also the local sightseeing tours didn’t seem to show much interest either. I had my first try at momos (steamed flour dumplings stuffed with vegetables) here; one of the delicacies in these parts.
We reached the Sterling resort – located in Ghoom, the highest railway station in India (7400 ft) and 8 km from Darjeeling (6900 ft) – around 8 pm, freshened up, enquired about the sightseeing arrangements available, had dinner and called it a night.
29th March – Day 1:
I had read that the Sterling resort enjoyed a beautiful view of the Kanchenjunga range. So first thing in the morning, I rushed to the viewing spot. I did not pick up the outline of the mountains initially, and noticed only the green hills and the valley below. Then I caught sight of something white and rocky, and my jaw dropped. The mighty Himalayas towered over the landscape, and spread out on the horizon. It was a magnificent spectacle. Superlatives are not enough to describe their grandeur. They dwarf everything around them, and make you seem like an insignificant speck. And to think that I was getting this wondrous feeling even though there was a slight mist around. The visibility is even better in the months from October to December! Now that would be some sight. However, I contented myself with what I had seen, and was pleased that this panoramic view would greet my eyes every morning for the next few days.
We then proceeded with the local sightseeing. First spot was the Batasia Loop, one of three loops on the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) created to reduce the gradient and ease the ascent of the train. The loop provides a scenic view of the mountains and is also the site of a war memorial, dedicated to soldiers who have laid down their lives for the country. After that we went to the Ganga Maya Park and Rock Garden. The highlight was my parents trying on the Nepali traditional dresses! That apart, we witnessed a Nepali dance by a troupe, and just strolled through the garden. Next was the Ava art gallery, which houses some excellent embroidery work and paintings by Ava Devi. Unfortunately, no photography was allowed, and the beautiful artistry witnessed was confined to memory. The Himalayan Zoological Park and the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), located within the same compound on a hill, were the next to be visited. Since private vehicles are not allowed to the top, we had to walk up the slope. The zoo is noted for being the only one in the world to breed the Tibetan wolf in captivity, and also for its snow leopard, red panda and Siberian tiger breeding programs. In addition to these, we also saw a variety of birds, the Himalayan black bear, several species of deer, the Bengal tiger, clouded leopard and other animals. The HMI was founded following Tenzing Norgay’s successful climb of Mt. Everest with Edmund Hillary. It contains a lot of information on the expeditions to Mt. Everest, the equipment used, and other miscellany. One of the exhibits depicted the different types of rope knots; I couldn’t tell most of them apart! The next place of interest was Tenzing rock, a steep rock face overlooking the valley. Tenzing supposedly practiced here before he went on to scale greater heights. With this, the sightseeing for the day was over and we went to the mall to have lunch and do some shopping as well. Meanwhile the weather played truant with a brief downpour; we resumed after the momentary interruption. Not buying tea in Darjeeling would be tantamount to sheer idiocy; it may not be an understatement to say that the tea here is the finest in the world. However, it is lighter in taste compared to Assam tea and is often drunk without the addition of milk. We went to a couple of tea shops and made the mandatory purchase. On the way back to Ghoom, we visited the Japanese Peace Pagoda, which was lovely and serene, indeed living up to its name. Back at the resort, it felt chillier than the previous night. Even the rugs were ice cold! It took a while before we could get some sleep.
30th March – Day 2:
The places to be visited on day 2 were less because of the greater distance that had to be covered. And I had spoken too soon the day before; heavy rains lashed the previous night thus enveloping the hills in thick, impenetrable clouds. It was impossible to see the Kanchenjunga range. The weather had dented my cherished morning routine.
First on the agenda was the toy train. The toy train, one of Darjeeling’s endearing aspects, had fascinated me ever since I read about it. The DHR is a marvel of engineering, replete with twists, turns, loops and ‘Z’ reverses. The complete journey from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling takes 7 hrs! Due to time constraints and non-availability of joy ride tickets, we opted for the daily train and decided to get down at Ghoom. This was not without incidents though. Getting the train tickets was a hassle. There is no proper system in place; to get the tickets one needs to fill a form as with the normal train reservation! I expected more tourist-friendly measures. Then our driver spoke to the guy at the counter in the local dialect and spared us the grief of having to stand in the long queue. Finding which coach to sit in was also a headache. There are neither coach nor seat numbers. Then finally the train started. Hardly had it gone a few feet when it stopped. The officials had gotten down and were inspecting the track. I thought it would never restart. But after a few minutes, it was up and running. And so we chugged along the narrow-gauge rails, slowly but surely. After 45 minutes, we reached Ghoom. But all in all, a nice and unique experience!
Stop number two was Jore Pokhari, a viewing spot. But the hazy weather ensured that photos taken would at best be half as good if there had been clear skies. Jore Pokhari also had a small lake, filled with a lot of geese – a very raucous group! We then descended the hill along scenic, winding roads leading to Mirik (4900 ft), a town that has been promoted as a hill station relatively recently. The main attraction here is Sumendu Lake, surrounded by a thick forest of Japanese cedar trees making for a picturesque setting. Along the way, we also saw several tea estates. A field day for panorama enthusiasts! On the return trip, we visited Pashupati Nagar, a duty-free shopping bazaar inside of the Nepal border. Jackets, shoes, cosmetics, deodorants, travel bags are quite cheap here provided one bargains heavily (and one needs to as well, since the cost of transport from the border to the market – Rs 150 – needs to be offset!). Heavy mist reduced visibility to near zero on the return journey; the very same route was bright and sunny in the morning! And by the time we reached the resort, a hailstorm had started! The weather had taken a complete u-turn. It rained through the night, and the rest of our vacation was in jeopardy of being washed out.
31st March – Day 3:
The sunrise at Tiger Hill, situated at an altitude of 8500 ft, is one of the highlights of any person’s trip to Darjeeling. The spectacular view and the sunlit peaks of the Himalayas are unforgettable. Unfortunately for us, the weather had taken a turn for the worse. Still, we were optimistic and left for the hill at 4:30 am. Luckily, the rain had stopped and the skies seemed to be clearing. As we approached the peak of the hill however, dense clouds started to roll in, obscuring visibility. It was like a game of hide-and-seek; the clouds would suddenly clear, offering a glimmer of hope, only to come back again and send those hopes crashing. Whenever there was a small break in the clouds, it drew expectant ‘oohs’ from the crowd. Ultimately though, everyone had to return disappointed as the clouds showed no signs of relenting. We should have visited Tiger Hill the first day morning itself, but who would have thought the weather would change this dramatically!
The second leg of the day’s program covered the remaining tourist attractions. Stop one was the Dhirdham temple, modeled on the lines of the Pashupatinath temple in Nepal. The statue of Lord Shiva depicts ‘Pancha Bakram Tri Netram’ meaning five different facial expressions in different moods and the Third Eye. Next was the Lloyd Botanical Garden, encompassing an area of 40 acres and situated below the marketplace. It seems to attract very few tourists, due to the narrow approach roads that can permit only small vehicles. This is a pity, as the park has a good collection of flora of the region and is a must-see for any plant enthusiast. We spent some time strolling through the garden; it was thoroughly refreshing. Our driver then dropped us off at the Observatory Hill, situated on the highest ridge of the town. From here, one can get a view of the surrounding hills (which again was ruined by the haze). Descending along the ridge walkway, the road opens out into the Chowrasta (literal translation for ‘meeting of four roads’), which is a wide promenade. After sauntering through the mall roads, we finished lunch and headed back to the resort. Darjeeling was done; so it was onward to Kalimpong and Gangtok.
1st April – Day 4:
Kalimpong (4100 ft) is a small hill resort about 45 km from Ghoom. It is noted for its flower nurseries, quiet scenic surroundings, and educational institutions. It is easier to travel to Gangtok as part of the onward journey rather than come back to Darjeeling and start over; hence we packed our bags and bade goodbye to Ghoom and Darjeeling. Located just beside our resort in Ghoom, the Old Ghoom Monastery (Yiga Choling Monastery) has a 15 ft idol of the ‘Maitreyi’ or ‘Coming’ Buddha. But thanks to the fickle weather, we had been unable to visit it. That morning, we decided to have a look before leaving. However, the monastery was closed and we had to satisfy ourselves with the exterior view.
The road to Kalimpong was excellent and also offered beautiful views of the lush hills. It was a bright and sunny morning and the Kanchenjunga range was visible again (how ironical). En route I enjoyed a sumptuous plate of momos as well! We then reached the viewpoint from which one can see the Teesta River that separates Kalimpong from Sikkim state, meeting the Rangeet River. The Teesta River is also popular for river rafting, and the person in-charge (of rafting) was goading us to experience it. I had already done so in Manali (along with my sister) and had gotten thoroughly drenched on that occasion, so I wasn’t too keen. My parents were game provided they got the assurance we wouldn’t get drenched (as we hadn’t an extra set of clothes). So we ended up going in our own raft, only the three of us and another three men to control it. We steered clear of ‘potentially drenching’ situations and had a nice drift down the Teesta.
A half-hour later, we were in Kalimpong town, which is nestled between the Durpin and Deolo hills. A flower nursery was first on the list. However, it was closed for lunch and we had to go elsewhere and come back. Durpin hill it was. It provides a panoramic view of the river valley; the haze still hung heavily over the hills and hence the view left much to be desired. On the same hill is located the Durpin monastery. Inside, a Buddha statue occupied the centre of the hall. The walls and ceiling were adorned with beautiful paintings, and decorative lanterns hung down. A feature of monasteries is the prayer wheels around the complex; these wheels have a prayer or mantra inscribed on them. Rotating the wheels is supposedly akin to reciting the prayer or mantra. The Kalimpong Golf Course, constructed by the Army, is one of the highest in the world (but I wonder if anyone actually plays golf there), and made for a good panoramic photo. We then went back to the nursery, which had re-opened. The climate in Kalimpong is well suited to the cultivation of plants, and many of them are exported to the rest of the country from here. We then trooped off to the town centre for lunch. Post-lunch we went to Deolo hill, the highest point in Kalimpong that has a tourist lodge and a pretty, landscaped garden dotted with Rhododendron flowers. The rain clouds were hounding us relentlessly and now loomed menacingly over the landscape. Close to Deolo hill, a temple having a large statue of Lord Hanuman was present. Now we began the journey to Gangtok. The Teesta River valley gave the opportunity to take an excellent panoramic photo. The hills looked very beautiful, lush and green. We had almost reached Sikkim (and were to switch vehicles for the Gangtok leg of the journey; our driver had taken care of the arrangement) when the heavens tore apart and it began to rain as if nature had been scorned. It was a furious rainstorm and the vehicle transfer became impossible. Such rain was rare at this time of the year, our driver explained. Just our luck! As it seemed unlikely the rain would stop soon, we headed to the nearest shelter (a petrol station), carried out the baggage transfer there and bid adieu to our driver. From the Sikkim check post it was an hour’s journey to Gangtok. The soil in these parts is often weak, leading to landslides when it rains. A few small ones had occurred, but luckily no damage had been done to life or property. The road ran parallel to the Teesta River for a while before breaking off with a slight ascent to take us into Gangtok (4700 ft). Our driver dropped us off at Mahatma Gandhi Marg (or MG road) and after looking at a couple of hotels, we decided to check into one. This road is the main shopping area in Gangtok and after recent renovation has been closed to vehicles. As a result we had to hire a ‘kancha’ (coolie) to bring down the baggage to the hotel. It had been a long day; we had an early dinner and retired for the night.
2nd April – Day 5:
Our tryst with bad weather continued. It had rained the entire night, and the skies were still overcast. We were getting used to it now! The day’s itinerary was to cover Tsomgo Lake, Baba Mandir and the Nathula Pass, all of which are more or less on the same route. It was a climb through the mountain roads developed by the Border Roads Organization (BRO). The name cannot be missed; there are umpteen boards along the way that constantly remind you of BRO’s bravado and skill. Self-glorification at its best! Since Sikkim is a frontier state, the Indian army has a sizeable base in the area and hence a permit is required to traverse these roads; our driver had taken care of that requirement. As the elevation increased, the cloud cover got scattered and the visibility improved, and the snow-clad mountains suddenly came into view. With snow needing to be cleared from the roads, there was a brief delay leading to a vehicular train. No vehicles are allowed after 11 am to control the flow of tourists. A line of shops, a crowd of vehicles and a board that declared ‘Tsomgo Lake: 12,400 feet’ meant we had reached our destination. The whole lake, an oval body around 1-km across surrounded by the mountains, was completely frozen! There was snow everywhere – white, pure and pristine. This is the sight I was waiting for, the second-best moment of the trip, the majestic Himalayas being the best. We had been disappointed at Rohtang Pass (Manali) where the snow had largely melted away, and was mostly tainted by dirt. We had some fun in the snow, and also built a snowman (sort of a cherished dream – well, not really). The time spent here would be all, as the Chinese government put paid to plans of visiting Nathula. The Tibetan protests had led to the temporary closure of the pass. A steaming plate of momos, some tea and more photos made up for the extra time. While returning to Gangtok, we visited Hanuman Tok, a Hanuman temple situated on a lofty hill (7200 ft). The Kanchenjunga range is supposed to be visible from Hanuman Tok, but again the weather would have nothing to do with it. Mt. Kanchenjunga should have been observable from so many points throughout our tour, but ironically the only view we ever had of it was from the resort in Darjeeling!
The handicraft center was the last stop of the day’s sightseeing. The museum showcased Sikkim’s traditions, religious practices, handicrafts, etc and was very interesting. A unique attraction was the Thangka paintings, which are painted or embroidered religious scrolls depicting intricate artwork; some of them were several hundred years old. We spent the rest of the evening strolling around MG road, umbrellas in hand as there was a persistent drizzle. The shops here close early – around 8 pm – so we had dinner and went back to our hotel room.
3rd April – Day 6:
Before leaving Gangtok, we went to a few other places of interest. The first was the Do-drul Chorten Stupa, one of Gangtok’s most famous Buddhist institutions, which houses several relics, holy books and other objects. Around the stupa are 108 prayer wheels. Close to the stupa is the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology that has a vast collection of rare Lepcha, Tibetan and Sanskrit manuscripts, Thangkas and other prized art objects. However, as it was early morning, it had not yet opened; ditto with some of the other places our driver had planned to take us to. The last stop was Saramsa garden, where an International Flower exhibition is held annually. The exhibition had gotten over 2 weeks earlier; but we nonetheless witnessed a variety of flowers in full bloom. It was a feast for the eyes, and also provided us with a pleasant morning walk. The other places to see couldn’t be accommodated into our tight schedule and had to be dropped.
The journey from Gangtok to Bagdogra took 4 hours. The weather was again bright and sunny, because we were leaving. After spending 5 days in the hills, the plains were scorching! Add to that the bad traffic (vehicles along with the usual suspects – cycles, stray animals, hand-carts) and it seemed all the lovely memories of the trip so far would be erased in an instant. Finally we got to the airport for our flight to Kolkata. The Jet Airways flight was on schedule (ten minutes late actually) and the journey took 50 minutes. It was humid and sticky in the city of joy; certainly nothing to be joyful about. We booked a pre-paid taxi to the city centre, scouted for a hotel once there and checked into one. A quick round of freshening up followed, and a 15 minute taxi-ride later we found ourselves in the bustling market area of Kolkata. It was absolutely chaotic. A trip to Kolkata would be incomplete without enjoying the famed Bengali milk sweets, and we set out looking for sweet shops. Inquiries for directions bore no fruit; nobody seemed to know properly. Then at last we came across one; but to our disappointment it was K.C. Das. As a matter of fact, it is one of the best shops, but perhaps we didn’t feel that sense of excitement as they have a branch in Bangalore. We settled for it and went in. The waiters were surly, impatient and indifferent; the experience left a bad taste in the mouth which was only alleviated by the delicious sweets. We then decided to have a look at the Howrah Bridge, one of the landmarks of the city, which is illuminated at night. The cab driver asked if we wanted to go to the old or new bridge. Here we made a crucial mistake; we went to the new instead of the classic old. To rub salt into our wounds, the new one was a toll-bridge, and we ended up paying the toll twice! We just caught a glimpse of the old Howrah Bridge as we zoomed on the new one. It was already getting late and hence we headed back to the hotel. It had been an expensive and worthless joyride. To make matters worse, it rained heavily that night. What was it that attracted the rain clouds to wherever we went?
4th April – Day 7:
Expectedly, we woke to a gloomy morning overcast with moisture-laden clouds. The plan for the day remained unchanged regardless. We had stepped out of the hotel to catch a taxi, when my mother, in a moment of intuition, turned back to get an umbrella. I discouraged her, optimistic that it wouldn’t rain and the skies would clear. The famed Kali temple (at Kalighat) was first on the day’s lineup. The driver who dropped us from the airport had warned about the conniving middlemen; we still fell for it (they’re good at what they do). The chap made us purchase this and that before going into the temple. I had a decent darshan of the goddess and was standing to the side when I was called again. To enter the sanctum sanctorum, one has to pay a minimum of a hundred rupees! Once in (rather pulled in), the pujari muttered a few mantras and coaxed me to pay the same amount again! I ignored him and walked out. The money-fleecing continued. Next was another man who broke the coconut. Then there were people who forcibly put ‘sacred’ threads on you and demand money for their trouble. We returned the threads and ignored them. Also, the beggars outside the temple were more irksome than at other temples. To top it all was the middleman himself. He had initially demanded only 21 rupees; he now would accept nothing less than a hundred! And then he wanted us to pay the person who had looked after our footwear. It was a swindling operation at its best. But our anger was washed away in the torrential downpour that began without warning. The skies had burst open, and it rained like it hadn’t for years. My optimism had been impractical; now without an umbrella we were trapped like rats. We waited for half an hour and then decided we had to move out and get a taxi as the rain had eased up a little. Alas, none were available, and the rain increased again. The lack of an umbrella in that weather was a clear handicap as we couldn’t step out in search of a taxi. The pujaris whom we had bemoaned were now standing in the middle of the road; what and why was beyond our reason; if they were looking for unsuspecting scapegoats, it was the height of optimism. However, they held that one important thing we didn’t have: umbrellas. So might as well use their help. It turned out there was a taxi stand hardly half a km away! I might see the funny side of it now, but precious time had been lost. We had breakfast at an Udupi restaurant (which we had some difficulty finding); I hadn’t yearned for South-Indian food, but it sure tasted great! The next point of visit was Birla Mandir. We had to deposit our belongings in the holding room, but strangely the security guard kept the camera in his sole possession; I protested, but he assured it was safe with him. The main deity in the temple is Radha Krishna; the idols were beautiful, the architecture of the temple exquisite. While exiting the temple, the security guard asked us to pose for a photo. His modus operandi then became apparent; we ‘duly’ tipped him on our way out and he gleefully accepted.
One of Kolkata’s major attractions is the Victoria Memorial, a memorial of Queen Victoria built of white marble. The memorial has a sprawling garden; inside is a museum having a detailed collection of paintings (mostly by the Daniells during the British Raj), statues and busts, photographs, guns and other weapons, and a Calcutta gallery detailing the history and development of the city. One feels overwhelmed by the amount of information available; it is certainly not possible to digest most of it in a short span of time. The Birla Planetarium, located close by, is one of the largest of its kind in Asia. We managed to be in time for one of the shows; but it was in Hindi. That didn’t matter, and moreover we didn’t have time to wait for the English show. The show had nothing new to offer in terms of information, but it had been ages since I’d been to a planetarium; the experience brought back memories of the awestruck child. St. Paul’s Cathedral, just next to the planetarium, was unfortunately closed. My aunt’s friend had recommended a sari shop (Calcutta cotton saris are quite famous) and in the course of finding it, we came across a few sweet shops; tried out a few varieties at each of them. One of my targets had been achieved! We finally located the sari shop and my mother made a couple of purchases. We had just about enough time to go back to the hotel, take our luggage and head to the airport. About 4 km from the airport, there was a severe traffic jam; the road had been blocked for some reason and all vehicles were forced to take a detour, leading to chaos. The diversion resulted in an extra travel of about 10 km, and we became anxious. The driver snaked through the traffic and somehow managed to reach the airport in time. We later learned that a serious road accident had been the cause for the blockade; a public bus had veered off the road into a canal, drowning several people. A very tragic incident and an inevitable outcome of rash driving on Kolkata’s streets. There was more drama to follow though. The flight I had rescheduled at the beginning of our trip had not been done properly; there was a problem with the Jetlite reservation system that led to the status of our tickets being closed. In essence, the system assumed we didn’t show up for yesterday’s flight, and thus the ticket was void. A heated argument with the officials was the logical consequence. But they were adamant that it was a mistake committed at Bangalore, they were not willing to accept responsibility on behalf of Jetlite as a whole and didn’t mind if the passengers were made to suffer. Ultimately we were given a choice of purchasing fresh tickets or getting a refund of a paltry amount and getting stuck at the airport. Now who in their right mind would choose the latter at the fag end of a long, dreary vacation? We bought the new tickets and I offloaded a good piece of my mind (in polite language of course). Subsequently, the flight was delayed by half an hour. Once we got back to Bangalore, I immediately approached the airline counter and explained the situation. The official said we’d get a full refund of the ticket amount in 15-20 days time. I’m certainly hoping for that as I’d like to approach a consumer court as a last recourse.
Well, that was a detailed account of our wonderful, though eventful, trip to the north-east of India. I would also like to add that throughout our trip, we were greeted by warm and friendly people, very polite and welcoming in their ways. The north-east is a fascinating part of the country that has mostly been given step-motherly treatment by successive central governments that have repeatedly ignored the needs of the people and consider the area mainly as a military bastion against the marauding Chinese. It deserves greater respect and recognition than that.
(Photos at: http://picasaweb.google.com/raghu.chengad)